Sometimes we are reminded just how long Patrick has been obsessed with amari. We recently stumbled across William Grimes' review of 'Cesca, the Upper West Side restaurant that opened in 2003, with Tom Valenti in the kitchen. Patrick was the wine director, and although he has been through numerous restaurant openings before, with more extensive wine lists, this is the first (and only) time he has been singled out in the New York Times for his beverage program. He's always been a guy ahead of the curve; back then so few were talking about this category of spirits. This was William Grimes' last restaurant review for the paper on the last day of December, 2003.